Inspiration #4: Very Cool Stuff!

Went to the Renegade Craft Fair with a friend on Saturday, expecting to be entertained and intrigued by interesting crafts, but ended up being pleasantly inspired by one ceramics artist with a very tongue-in-cheek viewpoint. He bridges art and the functional, in a whimsical way that I find to be tons of fun.

Brian Connolly is the artist, and this is his site: http://www.thingsoutofstuff.com/gallery/

The pic above is of a set of salt and pepper shakers....too cute! There's a lot more, so check it out!!!

Treasures! - Danish Stuff

So excited to find this salt and pepper shaker and mill! It's a really nice example of one of the pepper mills designed by the celebrated danish modern designer, Jens Quistgaard. Among the many, many beautiful things designed by Quistgaard, were the extensive line of wood (primarily teak) kitchen items designed for Dansk (a company he helped create). Quistgaard designed an estimated 70 mills for Dansk.

This is a great little book about them.
http://www.danishpepper.com/dansk_pepper_book.html

Until very recently, I also had the mill on the far right of the book cover. It's gotten so hard to find these pieces, and the ones that come up are so expensive, that I bit the bullet and sold it on EBay. I'm kicking my self a little bit now....but there's always hope in the treasure hunt!

Project 2.5: Chair Revisited

Remember this? I said I had an idea in mind for it, and that idea was realized. The frame has been totally silver leafed, and the seat cushion recovered in a white fabric. I love the look, and it's a great arm chair companion to my other "side" dining chairs.

My other chairs are white shell chairs with the chromed stainless eiffel base, so with this chair I wanted a silver body and white seat, to add a little contrast and fun.

You see? Metal leafing is fun and creates dramatic results!

Now, I just have to find another one...

Project #2 : Let's Metal Leaf Something!

Do you like stuff shiny, but not too shiny? Yes, please! Well alright then, let’s metal leaf something!

You’ve probably heard about something being gold or silver leafed. Frames, ceilings, even furniture is commonly metal leafed. Here are some images of metal leaf in action:

copper leaf

silver leaf

gold leaf

But, what is metal leaf, and how does it work?

Metal leaf, is an extremely thin piece of real metal. The metal can be a precious metal like silver or gold, or more common metals like copper, brass, or aluminum. There are even composites now, that are made up of various metals for different effects. The process of creating metal leaf is actually pretty cool. Traditionally, small pieces of metal were pounded by hand (with hammers obviously) until they got so thin, that a breeze could tear them apart. Some metal leaf is still made by hand, but most is manufactured in large presses now. It’s a lot faster, and a lot less labor intensive. Just FYI, the average thickness of gold leaf is about 3.5 millionths, or 0.0000035 inches thick.

I’m a fan of silver leaf, personally. I’ve silver leafed several picture frames, a bowl, and a large ornately carved wall mirror, and it's actually easier than it looks! What’s amazing about metal leafing something, is that you instantly make that thing look about 100-times more fancy and expensive.

So, how do you metal leaf? Well, I’m sure there are more technical instructions on the web somewhere, but here is my straightforward take on the process:

Tools/Materials you’ll need:

• Metal leaf
• Primer (acrylic paint, optional)
• Sizing (an adhesive that makes the surface sticky)
• Several brushes (1 for the sizing, and at least one soft bristle brush like a ladies powder brush, to apply the metal leaf and press it onto the surface)
• Soft cotton cloth or cheesecloth for softly burnishing
• A clear acrylic or polyurethane top coat to seal the finished product, and help protect it from oxidation and scratches.

Here are a couple of good websites for materials:

http://www.artsparx.com/store_gilding.asp

http://www.dickblick.com/categories/goldleaf/

http://search.utrechtart.com/index?N=1338&in_dim_search=1

Process:

1. Pick something to metal leaf. 
2. Make sure the surface you’ll be covering is clean and totally dry.
3. Working in manageable portions of the surface, apply the sizing and let set according to the instructions. It’ll usually take 20-60 minutes or so for it to dry to the correct tacky consistency
4. Ok, here’s the tricky part….Take the soft brush reserved for leaf application and brush it gently up and down your inner arm a few times. The brush will pick up microscopic oils from your skin.
5. Lift the paper sheet of the metal leaf book, and gently poke the leaf with the brush.  The leaf should lift with the brush.
6. If the brush trick doesn’t work, you can try picking up the metal leaf sheet with very clean, very dry hands.
7. Maneuver the metal leaf over the prepared surface, trying to cover the most  amount of surface at one time. Lower it slowly until the leaf is making contact with the surface.
8. Hopefully, you've been able to avoid wrinkles, but it's not too big a deal if there are some. The leaf not adhered to the surface will just brush off once it's all dry.
9. Continue to cover the surface, working in sections of the surface if necessary, until the piece is completely covered.
10. Let it dry overnight.
11. After completely drying, take your cheesecloth or other soft cotton cloth, and gently wipe it across the leafed surface, ideally over a trash can, or in an area easily cleaned. All the non-adhered pieces of leaf will come right off!
12. When all the extra bits are off (use a soft brush for carved or recessed areas) you can polish the surface gently with the cloth, and achieve a nice dull shine
13. Cover the finished piece (at least the metal leafed potions with a clear acrylic or polyurethane for protection, and voila! You're done!!!

Don't be afraid to think “outside the box”, and consider how you can apply metal leaf in ways that are uncommon and special. Maybe create patterns, or images? Here are some examples on 8"x8" plywood, of different techniques you can use:

straightforward, full coverage on a flat surface

using tape to mask off areas; create a pattern

use wider tape and an Xacto; create more organic shapes

So basically, it's all possible. You can metal leaf just about anything. Wood, glass, stone, whatever you want. Give it a try!

Treasures! - Cool Stuff

I wanted to share a couple of treasures from recent foraging. A great cast bronze piece, that looks as though it was part of something larger at one time, and was simply unscrewed, then tossed out into the world for me to find. I love the simple decorativeness of it, and the age suggested by the deep patination and rust.

I also found a really great chair! The chair is Heywood-Wakefield; ridiculously collectible furniture. Apparently, "During the 1930s and 1940s Heywood-Wakefield began producing furniture using sleek designs based on French Art Deco", and pieces from that era through the 60's are heavily collected. I have plans for this one, and you'll be seeing it again soon...let's see if you recognize it!

Inspiration #3: Sexy Furniture

When most people think of Portugal, they probably think of Port and Madeira wines, amazing food or Ferdinand Magellan. We should all be thinking about design! I stumbled across this site for a Portugese company making the sexiest, most interesting furniture I’ve seen in ages. Talk about thinking outside the box! They combine traditional/historical and contemporary forms with super-modern materials to make furniture babies that any parent would be happy to have at home.

Check it out!

Boca Do Lobo

Inspiration: Art meets Design

An amazingly impactful and artful idea that, even though it's typically thought of as a traditional printmakers technique for intaglio printing (an acid etched zinc plate), can also be used in an interior design application, on a wall or ceiling, or wherever you can come up with really. This beautiful example was done by a local artist, http://www.bethweintraub.com/archive2006/index.html

Think of something like this on a wall in your home! Graphic patterns, organic shapes and images, words...the variations that are achievable, are as endless as the imagination!

Here's what Wikipedia has to say about intaglio etching: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intaglio_(printmaking)

Zinc sheet is commonly sold for counter tops and other industrial applications. It's inexpensive as far as metals go. Here's a company that sells online, to give you an idea of the sizes and costs. http://www.rotometals.com/ZINC-SHEETS-s/29.htm

If you DO choose to try this project, you will need to do some serious research about the process of acid etching zinc. Although relatively simple, it can be very dangerous! Printmakers study for years to perfect their technique, and learn how to minimize their risk of exposure to dangerous acids and gasses.

I think i'm going to give this a go, and see if I can come up wth a process that creates a similar result, without all the toxic mess. I'll get back with you then!

Remember, anything is possible, if you put your mind to it, and devote some time to learning about it!

Treasures: Estate Sale Find!

Gorgeous day in the city on Saturday, and no obligations...a perfect day for a treasure hunt! So, I hit some of my favorite haunts, and wasn't disappointed. One of my favorite finds today was at an estate sale. In a group of items that had just arrived (lucky me!) I found a beautiful silver compote dish/centerpiece. It's about a foot tall, so it was more of a centerpiece from which you would serve or present fruit, nuts and candy, than a dish from which to serve an actual baked compote (a baked fruit dish). Made by the Poole Silver Company, I just love the elegant, elongated lines of this piece. It's poised and delicate looking, but very well made.

Shown here with a few of my alabaster pieces, compotes are great for the dining table. Sure, they're a bit old fashioned, but something like this adds sparkle and interest to the table, especially around the holidays.


An estate sale is like a big garage sale, and they typically happen when someone has passed away. The family can choose to have an expert come in, assess the value of the physical estate, and then dispose of that estate via an estate sale. These experts can also be hired to identify important pieces in the estate, thereby ensuring that the family is able to save these things. 

Inspiration #2: Wonderful Fashion and Art Blog

created and maintained by Diane Pernet. Cutting edge fashion, art and creativity. Very inspirational!

http://www.ashadedviewonfashion.com/

Project 1: Part 3-The Finale!

Cut the old electrical cord about 6 inches from the base of the lamp. If your lamp looks as though it will be difficult to get the new cord through, securely tape your new cord  to the cut end, and start to pull from the top of the lamp (the one with the wires showing, that we just spent so much time on) 

Lamp cord comes in several colors and thicknesses. Find the one that works for your personal taste, but be sure that the thickness will work for your lamp. Lamp cord thickness varies depending on the age and type of lamp.

Pull the wire all the way up through the lamp until the taped section is completely through. Cut off the old cord, and voilà! You have rewired your lamp! (just kidding) :)

Take your new socket apart. Now, you don't necessarily have to replace the socket of your lamp, but I want to switch from a twist switch, to a pull chain, so I'm replacing the whole socket. They're inexpensive and I think it's safer. If you are replacing your socket take the inside out (the socket base with aluminum socket) of the insulating sleeve and outer shell, and remove the socket cap at the base.

Just work in reverse. Thread the new cord through bottom of the socket cap, and screw the socket cap back down until snug. If you removed the harp saddle, you’ll want to make sure this goes on before you screw down the socket cap, along with any washers or nuts.

One way to track where everything is at a crucial or complicated step in a process, is to take a digital pic of the way it's supposed to be, so that when you have to replicate it, the pic can help you get it back the way it was.

Now it's time to separate the 2 sides of the cord, down about 6 inches from the top end. If you're careful, just the smallest cut between the 2 will start the separation, and you can pull them apart the rest of the way (to about 6 inches). 

You'll notice that the insulation around each side of the 2 ends of the cord is different. One will have a ridged texture. That is your "neutral wire". The side with the smooth insulation is the "hot wire". 

Before we go any further, we need to tie a knot! An Underwriters Knot..... fancy, huh? Here's a pic. 

Tighten the knot down well, then trim all but approximately 1.5 inches of wire back from both sides of the cord. Strip about 1 inch of the insulation off the 2 ends, to expose the wire beneath. Twist the wire between your fingers on each end tightly until it's smooth & straight. Now bend the wire end of each side of the cord, into a small hook.

Get the socket pieces. Take the black inside portion (socket base) and see that one screw is brass and the other silver. We are going to wrap the neutral wire, the one with the ridged insulation, clockwise around the loosened (but still attached) silver screw. Wrap the wire around until it's gone all the way around the screw. Now tighten gently. 

Do the same process with the other "hot wire", around the brass screw. 

Now you can start to pull the cord from the bottom of the lamp, to bring the socket base into the socket cap. You can move/tighten the knot to make it fit between the base & cap. The socket base should fit snugly in the cap (aluminum side up)

You can now slide the insulating sleeve and outer shell over the socket base, making sure to line up the switch with the opening in in the cover, and click it into place!

All we have left to do is install the new self-clamping plug. I use this type of plug because they are so easy! I’ve rewired a lot of lamps, and I’ve never had a problem. It's super-duper easy. You pinch the 2 prongs together, and pull out. The entire insides of the plug come out, and you'll notice there isn't much to it. Now pull the prongs to the sides away from each other. Thread the end of your cord, through the plug body (there's a perfectly sized hole there) and into the base of the prongs. Push it as far as it will go, then squeeze the prongs back towards each other again.

The little teeth on the inside of the prong casing, are biting into the copper inside the cord, making a connection for current to flow through.

Now, slide the plug body back over the prong casing until it's flush.

Ta-da! You're done! You have rewired a lamp!


Now you can reinstall the harp (if necessary), put a lightbulb in and the shade back on, and plug it in! Let there be light.

Thank you for joining me on this first project on my blog. Check back often for inspiration, fun finds and more projects in the future!

Project 1 : Part 2

OK. First, be sure to unplug the lamp. (Yeah, I know...duh)

Start at the top and work your way down. Just look at it. How is it put together? Do the parts even detach? Sometimes lamp parts are glued in place or molded, and can't be detached or replaced. If that's the case, you'll need to get a new lamp. Most lamps though, are put together in parts that at their most basic components are completely standardized. This is a wonderful thing, because it means you can go to a hardware store and get replacements. 

Here are the basic tools/equipment/parts you'll need, with the possible addition of some strong tape and maybe some scissors or wire clippers (if you're uncomfortable using a box-cutter type tool).

Start by taking out the bulb, and pinching the bulb socket just above the base. You've just removed the outer socket shell and insulating sleeve. 

Use a screwdriver to loosen the screw heads holding the metal wire ends of the split cord in place. Once loosened remove the socket completely. 

 You should be able to unscrew the rounded, bowl-like socket cap. If there is a nut or washer involved, be sure to save them. Once loosened, you should be able to slip it off. If your lamp requires a harp to hold the shade in place, you should see the 2 prongs of the harp saddle beneath the socket cap. Unless you’re completely disassembling your lamp, you don’t need to remove this.

Now you should have a just a wire coming out of the top of the lamp. You shouldn't need to disassemble the rest of the lamp, although I have, to show the way a lamp is constructed. 

Good to know: Using these basic instructions, you can change out bases, bodies or tops of lamps to freshen up or update the look of a favorite lamp. The pieces are sold in lamp supply stores or parts websites, or you can cannibalize other lamps you find in thrift stores for special parts! 

NEXT: Part 3 - the Finale!

Project 1: Let's rewire a lamp!

The Background:

I found this great lamp on Ebay, and fell completely in love with it. While doing some research, I found another auction selling a pair of the exact same lamps, and gobbled those up as well! The lamps are primarily carved Italian alabaster, with teak wood details at the top and mid-base. I will probably do an entire entry on alabaster alone (Love it). The addition of teak in the lamp design clearly marks them as mid-century, if the design didn’t give it away already. 

That’s actually a good general rule of thumb. When you’re looking at a thrift store piece of furniture and it’s made of teak or includes teak, it’s probably Danish Modern or at least Danish Modern inspired. One of the great things about vintage teak wood items is the fact that you’re getting pieces made from old-growth teak. The amazing and dramatic grain of the wood is impossible to get in farmed teak pieces. While I would never condone cutting old-growth teak forest down to make bowls, the fact is, buying vintage pieces is very “green”. Reuse & restore, people! There are also a lot of vintage Southeast Asian teak wood products on the thrift market. Some of these can be great: 

• Teak bowls - if they’re solid teak and in good condition, they’re a great addition to the kitchen, and you will pay tons more for new copies.
• Occasionally, interesting boxes or platters - sometimes these have really nice designs and can be great additions to a modern interior.
• Oversized fork and spoon wall decoration - eh...they are everywhere…what were people thinking?

These tend to round out what you normally see around in thrift and resale stores. If you love it, get it. That is the cardinal rule of thrift shopping. 

Well, one of the lamps has started to flicker when I turn it on, which means either the bulb is going to die, or the lamp needs to be rewired. I’ve tried a new bulb and had the same problem, so it’s definitely the wiring. 

NEXT: Lamp disassembly and parts identification.

Beginnings are a good place to start

Welcome. 

This blog is something i've been wanting to do for some time. I need a place to share, and a place to both inspire and be inspired. 

Who the heck am I? Just a creative guy working in the design industry, who's spent most of his adult life honing his eye and coming up with creative solutions for interesting problems. I ravage second hand shops, thrift stores and estate sales. I collect far too many things & get far too excited about little things like color, texture and finding just the right lamp, and have zero fear about destroying something in order to put it back together the way I want it. 

It's all about potential, people. It's about seeing "junk" sitting at the curb, and recognizing that the lines of the thing are there, the bones are solid, and the potential is there to take that thing, apply some love (or tough love) and end up with something that will make your heart sing. 

That's what good design does. It makes our hearts sing. It inspires us. Good design is tangible; you can feel it. You may not recognize immediately that you feel it, but more than likely if you walk into a room and feel good just being there, it's because there is a balance there. That balance is good design. 

I want to share the treasures I find in my forages, images of the things that stop me in my tracks while walking down the street, and the projects that turn me into a recluse for as long as it takes to realize them.  Question me, challenge me, share with me. Let's inspire each other. It'll be fun! 

So, I welcome you, my reader, as I also welcome myself on this journey. I'm excited about it!